To experience Holy Week in Cusco is to immerse yourself in a unique experience that fuses religious devotion with the cultural traditions of the region. During this time, the city becomes a melting pot of fervor and solemnity, attracting thousands of local and foreign visitors who wish to witness this special celebration.
The festivities begin with:
Palm Sunday, with its blessings and ceremonies, marks the official beginning of Holy Week. Devotees go to the parishes carrying palm leaves and woven crosses, symbols of protection and faith that adorn the homes after receiving the blessing. The Cusco Cathedral, the spiritual epicenter of the city, hosts a mass in Quechua at dawn, further enriching the religious experience.
This day is distinguished by the Communion Mass in the imposing Cathedral, presided over by the archbishop, followed by the iconic procession of the Señor de los Temblores. This manifestation of faith and tradition, which takes place in the Plaza de Armas, encapsulates the very essence of Cusco's Holy Week, being an unforgettable experience for those who have the privilege of witnessing it.
Attention is focused on the procession of Cusco's Sworn Patron Saint, the Lord of the Tremors, which stands as the main axis of the week. This day is especially emotional, as the streets are filled with the faithful who accompany the procession with deep devotion, while the crucified Christ, venerated as the "Taytacha de los Temblores", majestically walks through the main arteries of the city and the emblematic Plaza de Armas.
They are characterized by commemorating the biblical passages that precede the crucifixion and resurrection of Christ. From the washing of feet to the route of the "Seven Temples", where families walk the streets recalling the falls of Jesus, every moment is imbued with solemnity and reflection.
Good Friday, famous for the custom of the Way of the Cross and the twelve courses, is a unique occasion to enjoy local culinary delicacies, adding a special touch to the gastronomic aspect of the festivity. According to accounts from Cusco mothers, the stews prepared on this day are divided into six categories, ranging from savory dishes to sweet desserts. Among the options are the 'qolla lawa', a soft cream of green corn (choclo), chupe de viernes with rice, machas, choros, huevera, milk, beans, cheese, among other ingredients.
As for the main dishes, a variety of fish-based options stand out, such as tuna saltadito or fried fish. Bean kapchi with zeta is also included, along with a third dish that can be a pumpkin stew, with tarwi, llullucha and rice.
Desserts occupy an important place in the celebration, with proposals such as stew with peaches and apples, rice pudding and mazamorra.
Finally, the list is complemented with a variety of pastries, such as empanadas, condesas, suspiros, bizcochuelos, and pan jurka or pan torta. This wide selection of dishes and desserts offers a diverse and delicious culinary experience that perfectly complements the spiritual atmosphere of Holy Week in Cusco.
IMPORTANT FACT: It is important to note that on this day no meat of any kind, be it beef, chicken or pork, is consumed.
The climax comes with Easter Sunday, when the city wakes up with a large crowd gathered to celebrate the resurrection of Jesus. After the procession and mass, the streets are impregnated with the enticing aromas of traditional dishes such as chicken broth and empanadas, marking the end of a week full of fervor and spirituality.
Witnessing Holy Week in Cusco is an experience that transcends the merely religious, immersing visitors in a spiritual and cultural journey that leaves an indelible mark in the hearts of those who have the privilege of living it.
The "Via Crucis" in Cusco is an important religious tradition that takes place during Holy Week, specifically in the early morning of Good Friday. This practice consists of walking a path that represents the stations of the suffering of Jesus Christ on the way to his crucifixion. In Cusco, this route has historically departed from two Franciscan temples, the Recoleta and the Temple of San Francisco, and heads towards the Sacsayhuaman Archaeological Park, where the last station takes place.
During the "Via Crucis", the participants, including members of religious brotherhoods, perform disciplines or penances as a way of symbolically accompanying the suffering of Jesus. In addition to the traditional stations, nowadays other stations have been added, where different groups of neighbors make pilgrimages to high places in the city, such as San Sebastián and Santiago, carrying out the route organically or on their own initiative.
During Holy Week in Cusco, a variety of traditional dishes are enjoyed as part of the celebration. One of the most outstanding customs is the tradition of the "12 dishes", which consists of tasting a selection of both savory and sweet dishes. Below, I mention some of the dishes that you cannot miss during Holy Week in Cusco:
These savory and sweet dishes are a sample of the gastronomic richness that you can enjoy during Good Friday in Cusco. Each of them reflects the diversity of flavors and culinary traditions of the region, adding a special touch to this religious festivity.
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